1. Cartier Santos — the wristwatch becomes a practical instrument

In 1904, Louis Cartier created a wristwatch for Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont so he could read the time while keeping his hands on an aircraft’s controls. The Santos mattered not because it invented every element of the wristwatch, but because it helped demonstrate that a wrist-worn timekeeper could be a serious, purposeful object for men rather than merely jewellery.

2. Cartier Tank — geometry becomes identity

The Tank was created in 1917. Its defining idea was architectural rather than technical: a rectangular dial framed by two parallel side bars, creating a continuous visual line from case to strap. More than a century later, that proportion still reads immediately as “Tank-like” even when interpreted by other makers.

3. Rolex Submariner — the archetype of the modern dive watch

Rolex launched the Submariner in 1953 and describes it as the first divers’ wristwatch waterproof to 100 metres. The important part for design history is the formula it helped establish: a highly legible dial, luminous hands and markers, a rotating elapsed-time bezel, a strong waterproof case and a metal bracelet. That combination became one of the most copied and reinterpreted layouts in watchmaking.

4. Omega Speedmaster — the chronograph becomes a cultural object

The Speedmaster was introduced in 1957 as a professional chronograph. NASA qualified the Speedmaster for piloted space missions in 1965, and in July 1969 it became the first watch worn on the Moon. Its black dial, three-register chronograph layout and external tachymeter scale became instantly associated with the Moonwatch story.

5. Seiko Quartz Astron — the quartz revolution begins

Released on 25 December 1969, the Seiko Quartz Astron 35SQ was the world’s first commercially marketed quartz wristwatch. Its importance goes far beyond one case design: quartz transformed expectations around accuracy, maintenance, scale and price. It also opened the door for the electronic and digital watch forms that followed in the 1970s and 1980s.

6. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak — steel becomes luxury

The Royal Oak was officially launched in 1972 after Audemars Piguet asked Gérald Genta to create a steel sports watch unlike anything it had made before. Its octagonal bezel, visible fasteners, sharply finished case surfaces and integrated bracelet challenged the assumption that a luxury watch needed precious metal or conservative styling.

7. Patek Philippe Nautilus — a softer version of luxury sport

Patek Philippe launched the original Nautilus Ref. 3700 in steel in 1976. Its rounded-octagonal bezel and side “ears” drew inspiration from a ship’s porthole. At the time its broad case was unusually large for a casual luxury watch. The design helped prove that informal, water-resistant steel watches could sit inside the world of high-end Swiss watchmaking.

8. Casio G‑Shock — toughness creates a new shape

The first G‑Shock, the DW‑5000C, launched in 1983. Its architecture was driven by shock resistance: the module was protected inside a structure designed to survive impacts and vibration. The resulting square, armoured form became so recognisable that it developed into an enduring visual identity rather than a one-off technical solution.